ネイルサロンに訪れるお客様のなかには「爪が欠けてしまった」「自爪が弱く伸ばせない」という悩みを抱えていえる方が多く、ジェルネイルの施術時に長さ出しを希望されることがあります。
ジェルネイルの長さ出しをする際、サロンではネイルフォームを使って長さを出しますが、ネイリストのなかには「フォームが苦手…」「うまく装着できない…」という人が多いです。
そんなネイリストにおすすめなのは、ネイルフォームではなくチップを使って行うジェルの長さ出し！
そこで今回は、チップを使ったジェルの長さ出しの手順やオフの仕方を紹介し、ジェル検定でおなじみのチップオーバーレイについても詳しく解説します。
スカルプやフォームとの違いは？チップを使ったジェルの長さ出しとは？
まず、チップを使ったジェルネイルの長さ出しについて解説します。
そもそも、ジェルの長さ出しとは短い爪を長く見せるために開発されたネイル技術のこと。
主に、自爪が伸ばせない人・一部の爪だけが折れてしまった人から需要のある施術ですが、自分好みのデザインを楽しみたいというお客様からのリクエストも多いです。
そんなジェルネイルの長さ出しですが、最近はチップを使った長さ出しが簡単！と話題になっています。
具体的なやり方は、自爪の表面とチップの内側にトップジェルやクリアジェル（ハードジェルorソフトジェル）を乗せ、UVライトやLEDライトで硬化させて強度を保つというもの。
チップでの長さ出しはネイルフォームと同じく、お客様が希望する長さや形に仕上げることができるのでデザイン性の高さも人気の理由です。
さらに、長さ出しに使えるチップはネイル専門店だけではなく、ドンキなどのバラエティーショップやドラッグストアでも購入することができます。
しかも、最近はセリアやキャンドゥなど100均ショップのネイルアイテムが充実しているので、施術の練習・ご自分用としてお試し感覚で購入できるのも嬉しいポイントです。
ジェルの長さだしはチップとネイルフォームどっちがおすすめ？
ジェルネイルの長さ出しと聞くと、ネイルフォームを使った施術を思い浮かべる人が多いのではないでしょうか。
ネイルフォームとは、フォームと呼ばれるシール状のネイルアイテムのこと。
長さを出したい爪の指にフォームを巻き付け、爪の先端（イエローライン）にぴったり合わせてジェルを馴染ませ硬化するという施術方法になります。
ジェルの長さ出しにはどっちがおすすめなの？と思うかもしれませんが、どちらかと言えばチップの方がやりやすい！と感じているネイリストが多いです。
なぜなら、ネイルフォームには下記のようなデメリットがあるから。
- フォームを平行に付けるのが難しい
- 爪とフォームの間に隙間ができやすい
- ジェルが流れやすい
- 爪の先端に痛みが出る
個人差はあるものの、爪は緩やかにカーブしているので紙製のフォームをまっすぐ装着すること自体難しいと言われています。
そのため、爪とフォームの間に隙間が生まれ、ジェルを乗せてもフォームから流れたり左右前後に垂れたりする可能性が高いです。
また、爪の形やイエローラインの幅は人それぞれなので、お客様のなかにはネイルフォームを付けることで痛みが出ることもあります。
チップを使ったジェルの長さ出しとスカルプの違いは？
ネイルサロンでは、ジェルだけではなくアクリルのスカルプで長さ出しをしているお店もありますよね。
そもそもスカルプとは、アクリルリキッドとアクリルパウダーを混ぜた「ミクスチュア」を使って人工爪を作る施術のこと。
基本的にスカルプでの長さ出しにチップは使えないので、先ほど解説したネイルフォームをうまく装着しなければなりません。
アクリルのスカルプはジェルより強度があり長さを出せるので「ジェルはすぐ折れる」「1cm以上長くしたい」というお客様からの支持率が高いです。
ジェルより長さ出しに向いているのでは？と思うかもしれませんが、アクリルのスカルプには下記のような注意点があることも覚えておきましょう。
- 匂いが独特
- 人工的に見える
- オフに時間がかかる
- 自爪へのダメージが大きい
アクリルはジェルよりも刺激臭が強く、施術中は常に換気をしていないと吐き気やめまいなどの症状がでてしまうお客様が多いです。
また、アクリルのスカルプはジェルのようにぷっくり女性らしい仕上がりにはならず、どちらかと言えばシャープで人工的に見えるので人によっては苦手に感じる可能性もあります。
しかも、アクリルのスカルプは強度がある分オフの際は削りの作業が長くなることも理解しておきましょう。
アクリルのスカルプはハードジェルより削りに時間がかかるので、施術を希望されるお客様には自爪へのダメージが大きくなることもお伝えしてください。
付け方も！チップでジェルネイルの長さだしをするときの手順
ここからは、チップを使ってジェルネイルの長さ出しをするときの手順を紹介します。
長さ出しを始める前に、施術に必要な下記の道具を準備しておきましょう。
- ファイル
- バッファー
- メタルプッシャー
- コットン
- クレンザーorクリーナー
- ベースジェル
- トップジェル
- UVライトorLEDライト
- ブラシ
このとき、ハードジェルやソフトジェルがトップジェルとして使える商品ならそちらを使用しても問題ありません。
チップを使ったジェルの長さ出し10ステップ！
チップを使ったジェルの長さ出し10ステップは下記の通りです。
- ニッパーで自爪の凹凸をカットする
- ファイル・バッファーで爪表面を整える
- メタルプッシャーで甘皮を処理する
- クレンザーorクリーナーで油分・ダストを拭き取る
- 自爪にベースジェルを塗る
- 自爪にトップジェルを塗る
- チップの内側にトップジェルを塗る
※長さを出したい範囲まで塗る - チップを爪にはめUVライトorLEDライトで硬化する
- 十分硬化したらチップを外し未硬化ジェルを拭き取る
※強度が欲しい場合はさらにトップジェルを塗って硬化する - ファイル・バッファーで表面や先端を整えて完成
それでは、チップを使ったジェルネイルの長さ出しの手順を詳しく説明していきます。
①～④下準備
10ステップの1～4の項目は、通常のジェルネイルの施術と同じ下準備の作業です。
表面の凹凸や爪の長さはお客様によってさまざまなので、下準備にかかる時間もバラつきがあります。
⑤自爪にベースジェルを塗る
下準備が終わったら、チップやトップジェルの持ちを良くするためベースジェルを塗っていきます。
⑥自爪にトップジェルを塗る
ベースジェルが硬化したら、自爪にトップジェルを塗ります。
⑦チップの内側にトップジェルを塗る
続いて、チップの内側にもトップジェルを塗っていきます。
このとき、トップジェルは長さを出したいところよりやや広範囲に塗るのがポイントです。
トップジェルは硬化すれば削って長さを整えられるので、希望する長さより短くならないようチップに塗るジェルの量は微調整しながら塗ってください。
また、チップがカーブしている場合は自爪に付けたとき隙間ができてしまうので、部分的にジェルを多めに塗るのがおすすめです。
⑧チップを爪にはめUVライトorLEDライトで硬化する
チップの内側にトップジェルを塗ったら自爪に装着させますが、チップを押しすぎると中のジェルが漏れてくるので注意が必要です。
内側にジェルを塗ったチップは上から軽く押すだけで密着するので、勢いをつけず慎重にチップを付けてください。
チップを付けたら、UVライトorLEDライトで10～15分硬化します。
⑨十分硬化したらチップを外し未硬化ジェルを拭き取る
ジェルが十分硬化したら、チップを両サイドから回すように外していきます。
チップの先端を持って外そうとすると折れてしまうことがあるので、必ず爪の横からチップを取りましょう。
また、硬化が足りないと感じたらもう一度ライトを当てて硬化しても大丈夫です。
続けてクレンザーorクリーナーで未硬化ジェルを拭き取ります。
⑩ファイル・バッファーで表面や先端を整えて完成
最後に爪先端の凹凸や長さをファイルで削り、バッファーで表面を整えたらチップを使ったジェルネイルの長さ出しは完成です。
取り方は？チップでジェルの長さ出しをしたあとのオフについて
チップで長さ出しをしても、ジェルネイルの持ちは約3週間～1ヶ月です。
そのため、ネイルサロンで長さ出しの施術をしたお客様には適切なタイミングでジェルネイルのオフをお伝えしておきましょう。
とは言え、長さ出しをしたあとのオフはハードジェルとソフトジェルで取り方が違うんです。
そこでここからは、チップで長さ出しをしたあとのオフの仕方をハードジェルとソフトジェルにわけて解説します。
ジェルの長さ出し後のオフ①ソフトジェル
チップでの長さ出しにソフトジェルを使ったときのオフの仕方は下記の通りです。
- 爪表面を少し削る
- チップで長さ出しをした爪の先端を削る
- アセトンリムーバーをコットンに馴染ませ爪に乗せる
- コットンの上からアルミホイルを巻く
- 10～15分程度時間をおく
- 十分柔らかくなったらプッシャー等でジェルを剥がす
- 爪の表面や先端の凹凸をファイルで整える
- 表面をバッファーで磨く
- キューティクルオイルやクリームで保湿する
このように、ソフトジェルはアセトンリムーバーで落とすことができるので、ハードジェルより自爪へのダメージが少ないと言われています。
多くのネイルサロンではソフトジェルがメインで使われているので、初めて長さ出しをするお客様・どちらのジェルを使うか悩んでいるお客様にはソフトジェルからおすすめしてみましょう。
ジェルの長さ出し後のオフ②ハードジェル
チップでの長さ出しにハードジェルを使ったときのオフの仕方は下記の通りです。
- チップで長さ出しをした爪の先端をニッパーでカットする
- 粗めのファイルで爪の先端を削る
- 粗めのファイルで爪表面のジェルを削る
※ネイルマシン・フィニッシャーでも可 - ジェルが取れたらバッファーで表面を磨く
- キューティクルオイルやクリームで保湿する
このように、ハードジェルをオフするときの作業はほとんどが「削り」になります。
基本的にハードジェルはアセトンリムーバーで落ちないので、ソフトジェルのように10～15分ほどの置き時間もなくひたすら削らなければなりません。
また、頻繁にハードジェルで長さ出しをすると約1ヶ月周期で削り作業をすることになるので、自爪へのダメージもかなり大きくなります。
頻繁に削ると自爪がどんどん薄くなってしまうので、施術を希望するお客様にはハードジェルの注意点をお伝えし、長さ出しの適度な施術間隔を理解してもらいましょう。
ジェルネイルのチップオーバーレイとは？やり方を紹介
ここまで、チップを使ったジェルネイルの長さだしやオフの仕方について解説しましたが、ジェル検定1級でおなじみの「チップオーバーレイ」のやり方が気になる人も多いはず。
チップオーバーレイは自爪にハーフチップを付け、ジェルやミクスチュアで人工爪を作るという施術ですが、ジェル検定1級の実技課題になるだけあって難易度はやや高めです。
そこでここからは、チップオーバーレイが苦手なネイリストのために、ジェルを使ったチップオーバーレイのやり方の手順とコツを紹介します。
チップオーバーレイのやり方10ステップ！
ジェルを使ったチップオーバーレイのやり方10ステップは下記の通りです。
- ファイル・バッファーで爪表面を整える
- クレンザーorクリーナーで油分・ダストを拭き取る
- ハーフチップのコンタクトゾーンを爪に合わせて削る
- ハーフチップのコンタクトゾーンにグルーを塗る
- 自爪にハーフチップを付ける
- 自爪とハーフチップの段差を削る
- クレンザーorクリーナーで油分・ダストを拭き取る
- ベースジェルを塗りUVライトorLEDライトで硬化する
- クリアジェルを塗りUVライトorLEDライトで硬化する
- クレンザーorクリーナーで未硬化ジェルを拭き取る
このように、工程だけを見ると時間がかかりそうに感じますが、チップオーバーレイのコツを覚えればフォームやスカルプより短時間で施術を終わらせることもできるんです。
ジェルでチップオーバーレイのするときのコツは？
ジェルを使ってチップオーバーレイをするときは、下記のようにいくつかのコツ・ポイントがあることも覚えておきましょう。
- 自爪がカーブしている場合は短くカットしておく
- ハーフチップはやや大きめを選ぶ
- クリアジェルの硬化は2回にわける
まず、自爪が下に向かってカーブしてる場合は、ハーフチップを付ける前に爪をギリギリまで短くカットしておいてください。
カーブがきついと自爪とハーフチップに隙間ができやすく、カーブに沿って下向きに付いてしまう可能性が高いからです。
また、使用するハーフチップは自爪よりやや大きめを選ぶのがおすすめ。
ハーフチップは先端やサイドを自由に削ることができるので、最初から爪にぴったり合うものより使い勝手が良いと言えます。
そして、自爪とハーフチップの段差が埋まらないときは、クリアジェルを2回にわけて硬化するのも良いでしょう。
硬化を1度で仕上げようとするとクリアジェルが厚塗りになる可能性もあるので、上下左右の角度をチェックしながら慎重にジェルを塗ってください。
急いで買い足すならセリアのアイシングジェルとチップがおすすめ！
今回は、チップを使ったジェルネイルの長さ出し・ハードジェルとソフトジェルのオフの仕方・ジェルネイルのチップオーバーレイについて解説しました。
最近、ネイルサロンでは女性らしい見た目に仕上がるジェルネイルをメインに施術しているお店が多いです。
お客様からのリクエスト・デザインの持ち込みも多いので、ネイリストはお客様が希望する仕上がりに合ったジェルネイル用品を揃える必要があります。
ジェルネイル用のアイテムは専門店やネットで購入する人が多いですが、急いで買い足すならセリアのアイシングジェルとチップがおすすめです。
100均のなかでもセリアはネイル用品の取り扱いが多いので、施術用のジェルやチップが少ないとき・なくなったときはお近くの店舗で買い足しましょう。
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